The Project Pad

I am going to be testing my hypothesis on why 20v exhaust studs are so notorious for backing out even with thread locker. I believe it is due to lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust system. I will be adding hangers for the factory pipe and connecting the downpipe to the exhaust system via a braided flex pipe. Will be doing that this week.

AngryTaco wrote: I believe it is due to lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust system.

Wow this project look extensive as F#@% lol. When you did that 5th gear swap I was lie WHHYYYYYYYY punish yourself?! Looks great tho man. I also agree on the exhaust studs. I had my exhaust redone as a straight pipe and they tack welded the mounts to the frame and it was vibrating like crazy and no mercy being theres no flex pipe. Sure enough I lost the first 2 rear EM studs within 2 weeks of driving. I was able to half ass it with some GM studs without pulling anything off in order to do it right. There still there to this day but I made the shop correct the mounts for use with rubber items

There is certainly a lot of work involved. I just got the wiring harness into the firewall so the interior wiring begins. Wait till you guys see what I had to do on a snapped wastegate stud. I played with fire and welders for damn near two hours trying to remove 1 stud! finally I got pissed and melted it out then retapped the hole. PITA!!!!

They also back out from people over-tightening the nut, and not allowing enough room for the manifold to expand and contract.

Almost done!




Gotta get that bastard glowing orange before working it out!!!!

Looks awesome - love the 20v bay so clean looking! It's going to sound soooo meaty in that wagon. So much meat.

All this work man! You're not gonna be able to bring yourself to part with it later lol. Take it on the road and run from that customer!

Power Block installed. NOte that the current wiring is not my work so don't get upset about it.

Doing primary Power wiring tomorrow. Gotta figure out how to secure this damn battery box.

Had to use the plastic from the Baron!



After some trimming on the intake manifold and igloo, everything fits VERY snug with the MC2 distributor setup. The fuel pressure reg is different vs the MC1 setup so some small changes had to be made, most with a GIANT DEADBLOW HAMMER

nothing more satisfying than making things fit with a deadblow hammer!

So Im doing the fuel wiring right now. With a horn relay, I get fuel with the key on. This is a tempory thing while I figure out the hall sensor trigger. My question is does anyone know if the hall sensor signal from the 20vt distributor is correct to trigger the normal relay of this wagon. I CAN NOT use the ecm ground signal with this relay/fusebox setup (or can I?) without doing a ton of aftermarket wiring and using a 20vt relay. Ive yet to figure out a cel system with this yet but that will be later down the road (no cel on the dash) with some instrument panel rewiring. The 20vt relay is a 7-pin vs the stock 5-pin. The fuse box does not allow for a 7-pin btw, only 6.

Were talking about doing a 20vt swap in the future too after we get his suspension and brakes back to acceptable standards. That or finding another syncro and 20vt swap that. Should be neato

Sorry can't help but: "as long as the customer has got the loot" I think all those future plans will be just fine with us hear

Well the first thing he wants to do before another audi, is have me supercharge his 528i wagon

Did you ever check Derek Leep's site? All I did was use a 5ktq fuel pump relay. Simple.

The fuse box will not allow me to use the 20vt/5ktq relay. Thats what I did on my 4000 and all I had to do was wire in one wire from the ECM

I can not physically plug that relay into the VW's fusebox period

Ah, I missed reading that, my bad.

Well, time to relocate the fp relay?

considering it. I may just try to tap into the factory relay via the hall sensor but I need to get this thing going first

Why not just tap into the OEM relay and have it trigger the correct one? Shouldn't be too much extra wiring.

Not sure if the new distributor will send the correct signal. I dont see why it wouldnt but meh. Its worth a shot

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqWu8LKAL48[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUKyvf8a2kA[/youtube]

That is so something I would do. Hell, I did do it!

Car runs on its own now.

Has real laggy throttle response but I also havent hooked up a vacuum/boost line up to the computer either. Installed the wrong valve cover gasket so the thing pukes oil currently.

Fixing that tomorrow

Runs very healthy though

The laggy throttle response is from the lack of timing adjustment. Make sure you have the moisture trap and the correct length of vacuum line going to the ECU.

The moisture trap, I can understand. Even in my EFI conversion, I ended up installing one basically just to smooth out the vacuum reference.

How would the vacuum line length be critical?