The Project Pad

17x10 et25s with 245/40 tires


Mental NOTE: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ite ... heel-17X10

i think my car needs a new O2 sensor. While i am driving the car will randomly bogg down then catch back up. also it has a hunting idle when i first start up. I adjusted the idle control, so the idle was lower than where it was at. The RPM at idle was 1200-1300 RPM. now its at 900RPM. Mr. Marconi said that my car should idle at 750-800RPM. I tried that and my car just dies.

also, when i go to take off at a signal light, as i put the car into 1st gear and start accelerating the car will jump then bogg and THEN slowly rev up normally. its only in first.

Steven, that sounds suspiciously like a vac leak/ torn boot or something along those lines. doing it in first gear with the most torque and flex happening is kinda the red flag. honestly, I think a smoke machine is one of the most valuable tools ever invented. If you have access to one in any way shape or form, jump all over it. it eliminates any worry or question whether you got everything or not. look to see if the engine is moving too much due to a blown mount.

give that a look and let us know.

this coming up weekend i am going to replace one of my motor mounts as i have a spare. i looked and they are both pretty rotted. Which one is most important that i replace?

I will ask around to see if anyone has a smoke machine. I still think i need an O2 sensor just because it needs to replaced no matter what. the engine takes a huge dive when i start the car, but it only wobbles a little while driving, i guess thats why the steering wheel shakes at high speeds?

Kuma85 wrote:this coming up weekend i am going to replace one of my motor mounts as i have a spare. i looked and they are both pretty rotted. Which one is most important that i replace?

I will ask around to see if anyone has a smoke machine. I still think i need an O2 sensor just because it needs to replaced no matter what. the engine takes a huge dive when i start the car, but it only wobbles a little while driving, i guess thats why the steering wheel shakes at high speeds?

if both are rotted, then you should do both but the drivers side seems to make the most difference. make sure the snub is functional too.

the smoke machine will not usualy be a normal item for a hobbiest. this will likely be something a buddy at a shop has access to. may have to call in a favor to get access or flash a little cash.

steering wheel wobble at high speeds means a wheel balance issue or a comination of wheel and suspension issue like LCA bushings, or tie rods.

well, i only have the one. I have got no spare cash considering i am still waiting on my army compensation.

Although, its not really relevant, i just cant afford anything since i was Medically Discharged.

I will have to ask around town at the local shops for a smoke machine. I dont know anyone that owns a shop that's close by.

i noticed that my passenger side outer boot is torn. yay...

the tie rods need to be replaced

the bushings are shot to shit

my front sway bar wasnt attached on one side. Luckily the screws were still there just wiggled loose.

when i down shift from 5th to 4th or 4th to 3rd the rear end of the car glides to the right then evens out. it feels like it is doing a slight drift while going in a straight line.

i am pretty sure that most of my swaying and gliding and sliding issues are from my shot suspension.

the ECU i have installed is chipped, but i honestly dont know if its faster or better.

i am thinking about swapping ecus with the stock on in my trunk.

dont know if it will change anything, or if it even matters.

and i still havent swapped out my Brake bomb.

ALSO, the blue pentosin is getting eaten every couple hundred miles??? i have to keep adding blue stuff. I thought i didnt have to keep doing that?

Okay, so i repaired the boot. Snapped a picture and sent it to Dave K.

He told me APPARENTLY, i am missing a part of the boot. WTF. LOL

So after some clever ingenuity and silicon. The car doesnt bog down, AS MUCH. But its noticeably more smooth, and i have better acceleration and when i let go of the gas pedal it doesnt bog down while im just cruising it doesnt jump like it used to. I really need to get some money so i can finally get the 034 7A intake boot and the Big MAF. dunno why i need the big MAF, i guess i just want it.

ugh.

this car.

slow and steady. just be glad you don't have the 91 with all the emissions crap to deal with.

I just had my car finally pass inspection here, i went to 5 different places to get inspected just so someone would consider not caring about my missing muffler. I am only running a down pipe to a tube resonator.

except the oil isnt just on the threads if you look close. its on the bottom metal part just above the threads as well.

looks like a valve cover gasket leak to me..

i pulled the plug wires and only found oil in the hole closest to the battery. I dont know which cylinder is which as i just havent bothered learning yet.

i do know i need to get a valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket. Then i also need to get the new hoses that go from the intake to the device that connects to the MAF and throttle boot.

Front to back, 1-2-3-4-5
Simple as that. Firing order is 1-2-4-5-3

Cylinder 3

And btw, smoke machines are stupid expensive... But I did find a thread on how to make your own with a Party City fog machine and some extra tubing and such. I might try that later.

I thought you said it was the closest to the cabin? If thats so, that's cyl #5

Typo.

Something i noticed. If i am in low gears and i dont press on the gas really hard, the car wont bog. If i goose the throttle, it bogs. If i am in high gears and around 4k RPM the car is fine. it only bogs in the low gear low rpm's.

what can cause this?

I was dealing with very similar issues, would yours try and kill itself if you didn't give it gas? Cause that was the case with my coupe and this week I went and replaced the o2 sensor and I haven't experienced it yet. And the car seems to be running less rich. Hope this helps a little

Cj

Yeah, I had thought that, but wasn't sure. When I start the car, it has a hunting ideal then will die. But if I give it a little gas, it will level out.

How do you feel about bushings and such for your suspension? Stock being minimum, Derlin being maximum. Does Derlin transfer vibration/road noisethrough the chassis ect ect.

Hard bushings like delrin mounts will transfer a lot more vibration over stock bushings but also give you longer lasting durability and control on the road. Its kind of like you have to pick which one you want as the lesser of two evils. Sacrifice comfortability for performance or vice-versa

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I've had delrin bushings on every Audi I've owned (2 4KQ's and 2 90Q's) plus a number of other cars I've owned. I don't find the difference in NVH to be a huge one.

NVH?

I've seen two control arm failures on running cars, and the common factor was delrin control arm bushings....pass

what was the cause of the failure?