The Project Pad

So nothing was loose in the cam caps securing hardware. I really don't understand how this happened.

Also I can't find the original discussions on the 7a exhaust cam being more aggressive. I never really believed it and now I'm skeptical. Hope it doesn't change for the worse. Loved how it drove pre-destruction.

That is pretty strange man. I would be looking for a cause for sure. If you can't find anything, I guess just throw in a new one and keep going. It shouldn't be that crazy different.

Yeah its apart and ready for the old cam. I put the new lifters in and ordered a new cam chain and distributor brass gear. Waiting game.

All I saw was the gear on the dizzy showed a dent in one tooth where I'm assuming it clashed and didn't mesh with the cam gear and just popped the piece off.

This is all I see on the gears. I've foc u ssed in on their blemishes. I think theyre just from when the gear got caught in the dizzy gear after the breakage occurred though. Then again if jk what really happened. The break was after I stopped doing donuts and the motor was low rpm. Sounded like I ran over a piece of sheet metal when I believe it broke. Oh well, onward!

New lifter on right. Updated design? INA branded. What I find odd is that the cam surface of the new ones is not polished

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Not sure about this cam combo. Torn between no change and less favorable. New lifters are great though! No problems. Put in a rislone zddp additive too. Oneajpr change that I'm attributing to the cam mix is there's much more backfiring now during overrun. Trying to tune it out at key map points so I don't get arrested lol.

lol glad it works at least

Thanks Chris. As soon as it cools down below 80 F here I'll try to figure out the nagging question of whether it's worth it to mix these cams or go full 7a set, once and for all (via butt dyno tho).

Just had a huge tuning breakthrough though. I wasn't running enough timing at vacuum near idle and it was allowing the motor to stall when coming to lights. These is a huge deal for driveability for me lol!

So it's 94 F out here today. I still get stalling when the jet engine fan speed kicks on.
Anyone ever try using a capacitor to reduce that initial draw of the fan?

Don't put a bandaid on the problem. Just use a higher idle or dial in your idle control better.

I thought about you said and decided to remove the fan from the equation altogether. Shouldn't need it

Ok let's get this over with. I REALLY doubt that the weather would be affecting the WOT power as much as I'm giving it credit for.

DON'T MIX THESE CAMS.. ahem.

I'm going back as soon as I get the replacement and that's not the intake cam only for $300 from force five. No offense to him but I truly hope he sells them for that and he's able to retire early. Yah.

I haven't looked for the thread but I thought Javad found way back in the day that you can indeed mix the cams. If you only replace one, the one to replace is the exhaust cam with one from a 7A, as the intake cams are all very similar. Lots of guys on S2forum are doing this on their AAN/ABY/3B cars.

Think the dyno graph Javad posted was about 5 whp with the 7A exhaust cam. IIRC it was on 80tq.com somewhere.

That's what I thought as well. The one to have is the 7A exhaust from what I remember.

Interesting. I have the 7a exhaust and 3b intake in currently and sort of feel let down lol. Hard to explain but the car feels off on wot output.

I'm no expert, but have you done any fine tuning after upgrading the cam? Maybe that's your culprit?

I've only made small changes in the idle and part throttle areas. I haven't changed anything including ignition timing at wot. I can't imagine I need to add ignition timing to get back to the previous power level. If i had to guess id say it feels like im back to that gray area where the water/meth injection seems to be bogging the motor and I need to add timing. I am saving that for last resort though.

It's also a good thing I make it a habit of retorquing the ARP headstuds since they were all at around 50 ft-lbs as usual. I don't know why they lose their torque everytime.

Some minor news.. adding 77 rpm to my idle has cured stalling
Aannd, my coworker put 5+ ft of deep paint scratches in my driver side with the lawnmower as a preventative measure against me parking in my usual spot. He's a funny guy
He keeps promising to have a heart attack but I'm left here wandering when he's going to honor the claim...

Buy him McDonald's more often

He won't eat it. He won't need help, he's a heavy smoker for 40 yrs that quit like 5 yrs ago.

I measured all the new scratches. An astonishing 7ft and 1 inch lol. That would be one hell of an argument for an accident for him.

I fully expect him to garnish his weapon (I love that phrase) so if there's a shooting it will be at a funeral home whose name starts with a D in erie, PA. Hopefully I'll be named as the heroic man that stopped the crazed assailant. God I hope so, I'm only 30 and not ready to be killed in cold blood. It will likely be on the news between 8 AM and 1 pm eastern standard time if it goes down. Watch for it.

So it looks like jet engine speed for the fan drops my battery voltage to between 8.8 and 10.5 volts. Kills the car everytime that setting erupts. When that happens shold I be trying to maintain stoich using the IAC valve or is lean (how lean?) the objective? I've never bothered to study this part of tuning. Google seems to think I'm lame brained and gives me the layman how-works sights that arent sufficient. Thanks to all

One other quesion I have is ever since putting in the holset, the torque seems less than with the hybrid and the k24 even. Car seems alot quicker though. Idk anymore lol

Any time you're idling or cruising you should shoot for stoich. Nothing special about it. It's probably dying because of the voltage drop, not because of fuel tuning.

How is the dead timing on your injectors? Also the curve at which the dead time changes VS voltage? That could be part of the problem.

Thanks chris. Dave I was told that the tech of these injectors was so far ahead that they would run efficient with stock injector settings, aside from Changi g the VE table etc. I will look at what they are shortly. I was worried about that as well at one point.