The Project Pad

taco...did I see that you are putting down 300 crank hp? What is the secret to this?

THE CAM

And I said ALMOST 300 crank hp. Not wheel just in case you read that wrong

Damn, so if I tossed in a cam my old 4ktq would have netted 75 extra hp? I shoudla kept it!!!

AngryTaco wrote:....."THE CAM!".....DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!

There, i fixed that for you

I can get others made yall, just sayin.

Well considering a chipped ecm and spring will bump it up to 215-225 crank on a stock camshaft, I dont see why I wouldnt get close to 300 with THE CAM, oversized valves, ported manifolds, ported head, lightweight flywheel, and 17psi with a very efficient FMIC

Just wait till VEMS

Stop bench racing and dyno it

loxxrider wrote:Stop bench racing and dyno it

Agreed

scubadave wrote:I can get others made yall, just sayin.

No!!! I shall be the only one worthy enough of THE CAM

Who knows!? I may just send off my MC2 cam for an even more aggressive grind! MO LIFT!!!!

loxxrider wrote:Stop bench racing and dyno it

dont be a drama queen lol

I plan to dyno it this summer

K troubleshooting time guys!! Ive been having a really bad hard start problem recently since the rebuild. I had this problem before all the breakdowns so I know I didnt do something wrong. I hooked up the WUR and CSV last night and the cold starting is better but still not great. The problem is that it seems the car is vapor locking somehow. If I shut it off hot and immediately restart, its fine. If I let it sit for more than 3 minutes, it becomes a real bitch to start again. Ill have to crank it over for a good 20 seconds sometimes before it will even sputter. Itll sputter for about 5-7secs before finally firing up and run on its own.

New Fuel Pump
Filter is fresh
New Check Valve
No Leaks

Im thinking accumulator. Ideas????

Do you still have your system pressure set at over 115 psi?

Good to hear your car is back up and running!

Do you have an injector cooler on there? super high pressure plus no cooler would likely cause that issue.

yeah fuel pump is still relayed so pressure would still be over 110ish

Well I thought about that but it does it cold too

YAY SLEEPER LOOK! Now stupid ricers won't know wtf just flew by them


Less than 1% failure rate my ass


New Fuel Pump


M12 x 1.5 Tap (you are supposed to use a Z drill bit...wherever you can find one)


13/32 Drill Bit


YAY FUEL PUMP WITH PROPER CHECK VALVE!!!!!




Still having weird vapor lock issue though....even if it sits for 5 mins, it becomes a bitch to restart

Your sure you dont have a vac leak? Every time i had hard start problems like that was because of a vac leak somewhere. Usually the boot on the fuel destrib wasnt seated properly. Even then, with no leaks it was finicky. It seemed cranking for 20 seconds was the norm. It really takes a cis genius to get them to run perfect without any issues. If you could get dahllback to come tune your car you might be in business, but chances of that are kinda low. I lived with a lot of niggling issues like that. Chalked it up to livable since the car was just so retarded when running tip top with no intake or exhaust leaks. Its going to be nice with a proper engine management system in it.

Fyi, if you havnt done coil overs yet(I cant remember if you have or not) it made the car 20 times better cause it would actually hook up. Anybody I gave a ride would almost shit their pants. Autocrossing, riders would get out of the car dizzy. It was awesome!

Btw, almost ready to tear into the coupe. Ill let you know when its ready to ship the turbo up to you.

sweet. yeah no coils yet. Just CQ springs all around. It does need slightly stiffer and adjustable suspension

And once again the car tries to kill me and itself in a blazing ball of glory. Starter decided to stick...electrical went all goofy and crazy then everything went back to normal. Well then I smelled a VERY strong electrical fire smell when I stopped moving. SHIT SHIT SHIT SHIT SHIT SHIT.

Jump out...no smoke, no nothing. Weird right? Well starter wont turn over via key OR manually jumping it. Good thing its a lifetime.....getting tired of this BS

If you havnt got a fire extinguisher in your car and handy, get one. Ask Hank why. When doing full blown mods like we do, its a must. Now ask me if I have one in my car yet I need one too.

Yeah yeah. Im being harassed by at least 3 ppl now to get a fire extinguisher.

Now get this.... I put the new starter in and on the first crank, it fired up like it had been running 5 seconds ago. IT WAS SITTING ALL DAY!!!!!! What the hell!?!?

Bad ground maybe. I have seen that cause issues with the ignition system.

I have extinguishers in all my cars. They light on fire and when they do, it happens quick.

AngryTaco wrote:Yeah yeah. Im being harassed by at least 3 ppl now to get a fire extinguisher.

GET A DAMN FIRE EXTINGUISHER! You have terrible luck as it is, you don't want your little Baron to go down in flames now do ya?

Get yourself a K-jet test kit: http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3420-Je ... B008FJXA3M

Or borrow one or rent one. If you have any mom and pop shops around that work on old German or Italian cars, they probably have a kit laying around that they would let you borrow for an afternoon. You would be able to perform a pressure leak-down test with it and find out where your problem is. You could guess that it is the accumulator but it could also be the filter-outlet banjo bolt with the check-valve in it too. You won't know until you test it. I have messed around with K-jet long enough to know that you can't guess, you must test. You can also verify system pressure and correct operation of the WUR as well. Remember, just because your fuel pump is outputting x-psi, it has no effect on system pressure. (unless pump pressure is too low) I have had friends bring me a K-jet car that was running like crap and they were at their wits end trying to find out what was wrong, and in about an hour I had them purring like a kitten and usually it did not involve replacing any parts. (at least none of the expensive ones)

Good luck!

Brendan