Marc's 1990 4.2L V8 Twin Turbo Coupe Quattro
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Alloutofdonuts
Alloutofdonuts wrote:The flex pipes are intelligent. something I left out and I'll probably have a crack somewhere before long. When/if I go the turbo route I'll stick some of those on mine. Lookin' Spiffy Marc :-D You bringing this to "Aqua-fest"(lol)?
You bet! I was hoping to have the car done for NHIS which is this coming week but couldn't quite make it. One thing I've learned is that as much as setting a deadline helps to push your ass into gear to get a project done it can make it 'no fun' if you push too hard. And thats just not the idea ya know?
So I'm pretty happy with the rate of progress thus far, NHIS or not. Here's some pics from yesterday and today:
flaring the fuel lines
complete fuel line assemblies:
The two wires out of the 'b' harnesses needed to run to the ecu (fuel pump and ignition power):
Big bad battery wire splice to junction for fusebox power and power to the 034 relay board:
All the basic components of the wiring setup. 75A relay to switch igntion power to an 8 gauge battery wire that runs my 034 relay board and other stuff. Whaddya know, turned the key and everything lit up, injectors click, etc. Yeeha!
Decided on wrinkle black for the timing belt covers. Puuurrdy:
and wow.. these motors take some friggin oil yo!
And thats not even filling up the oil cooler (10 qts total is supposed to put things at the full mark on the dipsitck, yeesh!)
Getting close.. I can almost hear the engine running in my dreams (no seriously, I was doing donuts in front of the shop in my dream last night) :-D
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
eventuallyblue wrote:I'm having de-ja-vu looking at this thread! Good luck man!
I think the engine harness on my car came from the one Javad built for your car!

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Ronald G Wainwright+
Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:[/quote]
Uh Marc, there was a revision on the amount of oil. Not 10qts, but 8 1/2qts.
But looks good[/quote]
Huh, no oil in the oil cooler at the moment and 8 quarts puts me halfway between the hashmarks.. I would think the oil cooler definitely takes more than half a quart.. but factory specs is factory specs!
a4kquattro wrote:And thats not even filling up the oil cooler (10 qts total is supposed to put things at the full mark on the dipsitck, yeesh!)
Uh Marc, there was a revision on the amount of oil. Not 10qts, but 8 1/2qts.
But looks good[/quote]
Huh, no oil in the oil cooler at the moment and 8 quarts puts me halfway between the hashmarks.. I would think the oil cooler definitely takes more than half a quart.. but factory specs is factory specs!
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Ronald G Wainwright+
Let me search around for the TSB. But trust me 8 1/2qts
If I remember it correctly if 10qts is used the motor has a tendancy to burn it off quicker. My 90's manual saies 10qts, but my 93's manual states 8 1/2 qts.
OK here it is, engine oil with filter change.......8 qts. / 7.5 liters
Do not fill above "max" mark.
The oil level should be checked
while topping up.
Difference between "min" and
"max" marks on the
dipstick is........approx. 2 qts. / 2 liters
I wouldn't BS you.
If I remember it correctly if 10qts is used the motor has a tendancy to burn it off quicker. My 90's manual saies 10qts, but my 93's manual states 8 1/2 qts.
OK here it is, engine oil with filter change.......8 qts. / 7.5 liters
Do not fill above "max" mark.
The oil level should be checked
while topping up.
Difference between "min" and
"max" marks on the
dipstick is........approx. 2 qts. / 2 liters
I wouldn't BS you.
Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:[/quote]
Let me search around for the TSB. But trust me 8 1/2qts
If I remember it correctly if 10qts is used the motor has a tendancy to burn it off quicker. My 90's manual saies 10qts, but my 93's manual states 8 1/2 qts.
OK here it is, engine oil with filter change.......8 qts. / 7.5 liters
Do not fill above "max" mark.
The oil level should be checked
while topping up.
Difference between "min" and
"max" marks on the
dipstick is........approx. 2 qts. / 2 liters
I wouldn't BS you.[/quote]
Nor was I suggesting that you were! Just stating what I noticed after adding 8 quarts
If I remember it correctly if 10qts is used the motor has a tendancy to burn it off quicker. My 90's manual saies 10qts, but my 93's manual states 8 1/2 qts.
OK here it is, engine oil with filter change.......8 qts. / 7.5 liters
Do not fill above "max" mark.
The oil level should be checked
while topping up.
Difference between "min" and
"max" marks on the
dipstick is........approx. 2 qts. / 2 liters
I wouldn't BS you.[/quote]
Nor was I suggesting that you were! Just stating what I noticed after adding 8 quarts

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
So the day started off ok, I bought some v8 timing belt tools so I could install the 60-2 wheel supplied by 034. Turns out neither of the cam locking tools I got fit the v8 so I.. improvised 

Coupla wrenches tied to the cam bolts seemed to do the trick nicely.
So in the middle of the job I went to go grab a sharpie out of my toolbox to mark the camshafts when I saw something moving in the corner of my eye as I started walking back toward the front of the car....

:curses: :frustrated: :curses: :curses: :curses: :frustrated:
Yah.. that would be my toolbox falling over.. Its what I get for using cardboard to compensate for the slope in the concrete. Theres been a lot of rain in this area recently and some water got into the garage, soaked the cardboard.. whamo! All in all I got away pretty lucky. The fender on the car got scratched up pretty bad and the bottom drawer of the toolbox is fubar but it coulda been worse..

So now the boxes sit more like this...

So anyway, back to this car project thingy.. I installed the pulley, hooked up the oil cooler, then realized I had removed the starter solenoid wire with the engine harness. oops.
So back to the bently and I realized I also needed pin 50A off of the 'B' harness on the fusebox. Wired that up and we're ready to crank over.. as soon as either my battery or my boost pack has some juice in it

Coupla wrenches tied to the cam bolts seemed to do the trick nicely.
So in the middle of the job I went to go grab a sharpie out of my toolbox to mark the camshafts when I saw something moving in the corner of my eye as I started walking back toward the front of the car....
:curses: :frustrated: :curses: :curses: :curses: :frustrated:
Yah.. that would be my toolbox falling over.. Its what I get for using cardboard to compensate for the slope in the concrete. Theres been a lot of rain in this area recently and some water got into the garage, soaked the cardboard.. whamo! All in all I got away pretty lucky. The fender on the car got scratched up pretty bad and the bottom drawer of the toolbox is fubar but it coulda been worse..
So now the boxes sit more like this...
So anyway, back to this car project thingy.. I installed the pulley, hooked up the oil cooler, then realized I had removed the starter solenoid wire with the engine harness. oops.
So back to the bently and I realized I also needed pin 50A off of the 'B' harness on the fusebox. Wired that up and we're ready to crank over.. as soon as either my battery or my boost pack has some juice in it
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Ronald G Wainwright+
Hey Marc as I'm sure your awair "it could have been worse".
But let me guess...you got the cam lockers for the A8 motor?
& you have balls of steel to have that setup. Looks like vise grips holding those wrenches? At least the belt is still on. Nice in a way reminds of something you may have consulted Huw Powell on
looking good though, sept that tool box.
But let me guess...you got the cam lockers for the A8 motor?
& you have balls of steel to have that setup. Looks like vise grips holding those wrenches? At least the belt is still on. Nice in a way reminds of something you may have consulted Huw Powell on

looking good though, sept that tool box.
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quattrofrog
newt wrote:Not quite sure what those do for ya?? Those bolts/pulleys must come off in a timing belt job, otherwise you'll end up with slight cam errors relative to both the crank, and the other bank. You've gotta lock the cams from the rear distributor locations, then pop both front pulleys so they freely rotate on the cams, then tension the belt with everything locked, then tighten the cam pulleys down. :wink:a4kquattro wrote:Turns out neither of the cam locking tools I got fit the v8 so I.. improvised
Eh? I dont see how I could have messed up on this. The cams did not move, nor did the crank during this procedure. Belt off, belt on, nothing moved.
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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yodasfro
Ah, well I suspect the engine will run, I'll revistit the issue later, probably when the heads have to come off for turbocharging 

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
In other news, anybody got a set of v8 timing belt covers for sale? Long story.. but I f'd up the passenger side cover (I'll blame it on the falling toolbox, yah, thats it...)
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Ronald G Wainwright+
Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:[/quote]
Oh Marc I just gave away (literaly) the pass side cover 2 days ago. But I do still have a driver side. It's yours if you need it.[/quote]
Gah!!!! Nope, just need the passenger side :(
I fubar'd the tensioning mechanism
Gah!!!! Nope, just need the passenger side :(
I fubar'd the tensioning mechanism
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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yodasfro
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Ronald G Wainwright+
yodasfro wrote:Ronald G Wainwright+ wrote:Well Semple, Semple, Semple.[/quote]
Keith keith keith[/quote]
Um you mean Bruce, Bruce, Bruce...
But I know you probley figured that Semple is alot closer thats why I suggest Semple.
But Bruce is sending me some stuff & I can see if you can through in the pass side cover for you Marc. Let me know.
I'll PM you
Update: I tried starting the car yesterday but couldn't get the VR signal to stay consistant. While cranking its jumping around quite a bit, not staying constant at 59 like I want to see. Probably just the air gap but I'll need to muck with it some more to get it stable.
Meanwhile, I tried test fitting the radiator and bumpers, looks like I gots the wrong radiator :-/
Its very close to the one Nate ran but slightly wider, wide enough so that I'd almost have to hammer it between the headlight slats to make it fit. I ordered up one of these instead, which is narrower by about 2.5", but otherwise the same dimensions:
Summit PN SUM-380328 (27x19.5x2.25)
Meanwhile, I tried test fitting the radiator and bumpers, looks like I gots the wrong radiator :-/
Its very close to the one Nate ran but slightly wider, wide enough so that I'd almost have to hammer it between the headlight slats to make it fit. I ordered up one of these instead, which is narrower by about 2.5", but otherwise the same dimensions:
Summit PN SUM-380328 (27x19.5x2.25)
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Alright, interesting happenings today. Here are some radiator test-fit pics from last weekend when I figured out the one I ordered is a little too wide

Fast forward to today. I really wanted to get the car started today but ran into an interesting snag. I noticed that the starter was working harder than it should have been. I at first attributed this to a dead battery so I borrowed a friend's 150amp starting cart while I got the VR sensor dialed in. Problem was, the starter was STILL slow even when cranked up to the starter cart. I started to panic when I noticed that the crank was REALLY hard to turn over (I measured 160 ft lbs to just turn the engine over). I pulled the plugs and the effort of rotating the crank was the same. feck I'm thinking, I bent the valves (this is after I had pulled the crank pulley to install the 60-2 wheel, and I discovered I didn't follow the right procedure for maintaining valve timing). So the next logical step was to try to peek at the intake valves with the manifold off to see if any of them were bent. So I pulled the manifold, they all looked fine.

So next up, I pulled the heads to take a closer look:

All the valves are fine (phew!) but the crank is still WAY too hard to turn.
So at this point, I pulled the motor figuring there had to be some kind of problem on the flywheel end. Hmm, what's that in the bell housing there?

Metal shavings in the starter hole? hmm..

All making sense now. It appears that my brand new starter motor in the fully extended position extends past the steel flywheel teeth. That normally wouldn't be a problem, except that the v8 aluminum flywheel isn't machined so that the teeth can pass harmlessly by. What was happening was the starter was sticking in the extended position making it very difficult to crank the motor by hand (basically fighting the windings on the starter). Not sure if I'll have the flywheel milled down or if I'll just make up a spacer for the starter motor so it doesn't extend quite so far out yet.
Sooo, the fact that I've now had to pull the heads on this car makes for a change in plans. Yo J, we need to talk turbos, stat

Fast forward to today. I really wanted to get the car started today but ran into an interesting snag. I noticed that the starter was working harder than it should have been. I at first attributed this to a dead battery so I borrowed a friend's 150amp starting cart while I got the VR sensor dialed in. Problem was, the starter was STILL slow even when cranked up to the starter cart. I started to panic when I noticed that the crank was REALLY hard to turn over (I measured 160 ft lbs to just turn the engine over). I pulled the plugs and the effort of rotating the crank was the same. feck I'm thinking, I bent the valves (this is after I had pulled the crank pulley to install the 60-2 wheel, and I discovered I didn't follow the right procedure for maintaining valve timing). So the next logical step was to try to peek at the intake valves with the manifold off to see if any of them were bent. So I pulled the manifold, they all looked fine.

So next up, I pulled the heads to take a closer look:

All the valves are fine (phew!) but the crank is still WAY too hard to turn.

So at this point, I pulled the motor figuring there had to be some kind of problem on the flywheel end. Hmm, what's that in the bell housing there?

Metal shavings in the starter hole? hmm..

All making sense now. It appears that my brand new starter motor in the fully extended position extends past the steel flywheel teeth. That normally wouldn't be a problem, except that the v8 aluminum flywheel isn't machined so that the teeth can pass harmlessly by. What was happening was the starter was sticking in the extended position making it very difficult to crank the motor by hand (basically fighting the windings on the starter). Not sure if I'll have the flywheel milled down or if I'll just make up a spacer for the starter motor so it doesn't extend quite so far out yet.
Sooo, the fact that I've now had to pull the heads on this car makes for a change in plans. Yo J, we need to talk turbos, stat

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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JShadzi
JShadzi wrote:Doh! Damn Marc, you don't mess around! Very odd, haven't seen this on the flywheels yet, any idea what dimention could be off? Look like you could throw the FW in a lathe and remove some of that material to clear the teeth, or a small spacer to move things out, interesting.
Yea, lets talk turbos
dos t3 super 60's por favor

I actually need a bunch of parts, part of the reason I called earlier today, wanted to ask Nate what kind of other parts I might need (I suspect he might have used two intake manifold gaskets too, etc).
When's a good time to call? I want to make sure I get the parts for next weekend.
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
JShadzi wrote:Doh! Damn Marc, you don't mess around! Very odd, haven't seen this on the flywheels yet, any idea what dimention could be off?
The teeth either need to be 'longer', or the flywheel should be machined down so that the valley on the flywheel teeth extends a bit further, about an extra 1/4" or so.
Look like you could throw the FW in a lathe and remove some of that material to clear the teeth, or a small spacer to move things out, interesting.
Since I dont have a lathe handy I'm probably going to go for option #2. No biggie, but figured you guys should know for the next run of flywheels.
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Ronald G Wainwright+
Geez Marc, you know how to make a guys hart jump a beat or two. Even though it's not my motor anymore I still feel it an extended part of the familey. I started to feel faint but glad to have kept going & read that the motor was OK(you should add a Phew emoticon).
But let me see if I can understand. So the starter teeth were extending past the flywheel teeth & binding obviousley on the top of the flywheel & couldn't return cause of the binding?
?, if you make up a spacer for the starter will you need longer starter bolts?
& why did this happen?
But let me see if I can understand. So the starter teeth were extending past the flywheel teeth & binding obviousley on the top of the flywheel & couldn't return cause of the binding?
?, if you make up a spacer for the starter will you need longer starter bolts?
& why did this happen?

